Baja: La Paz and Palapas Ventana

June 7

My brief foray into La Paz convinced me that I had absolutely no desire to stay there.  It’s a big city (by Baja standards) with virtually no charm.  I checked out one hostel that had gotten good ratings, and there was no one there.  “Time to move on” I says to meself!

One of the things I wanted to do in Baja was to check out some places for a future trip of whale watching.  Baja California is where the grey whales go in the winter to mate and have their babies.  I heard about an area called El Sargento on the Sea of Cortez, so headed over there.  I ended up staying at a great little resort called Palapas Ventana, which has cabins overlooking the beach, kite boarding, stand-up paddle boards, and scuba diving.  They also have whale sharks on the Sea of Cortez side and do paddle boarding trips to see grey whales on the Pacific side in February.  I think this is definitely a place to return to.  Not only that, but they make GREAT margaritas, and the cook made me chile relleno filled with red snapper and mango that was to die for.  A definite keeper! 

Over the Devil’s Spine to Mazatlan and the Ferry to La Paz

 June 5 - 7

 Leaving Zacatecas I had to make a choice:  Do I go to Durango and spend the night or try to make it all the way to Mazatlan in one day?  This was Tuesday and I had a reservation on the ferry from Mazatlan to La Paz (Baja California) for Friday.  On the other hand, I kind of wanted to get to Los Angeles before my mother was leaving for Italy, so I had an incentive to move the schedule up a few days.  I called the ferry company and was told there would be no problem getting on the boat on Wednesday (the ferry only runs Monday, Wednesday, and Friday) so I decided I would make it a long day of riding and would try to get to Mazatlan (about 400 miles) in one day.

The stretch from Zacatecas to Durango was not a problem.  It took a while to get out of Zacatecas and its suburbs, but then I took the toll road part of the way to Durango.  I don’t normally take the toll roads;  not only are they expensive, but they are boring.  They bypass all the towns and interesting sights.  But I was in a hurry and had a lot of riding ahead of me.

In Durango I stopped for gas and coffee and had the only uncomfortable experience of the entire trip.  I’m often asked if I have any problem with “bandidos” or other unsavory characters, and fortunately I have not.  I talk to a lot of people and generally they are just curious about the trip.  But while I was talking to a couple of guys in the coffee shop I just felt that they were being a little too curious about me and my plans.  It is very possible that this was entirely my imagination, but I just didn’t feel comfortable with their questions.  So I did what anyone would do:  I lied like hell, told them I was staying in Durango, and got out of Dodge (or Durango, as the case may be).  Like I said, this might have been all in my imagination but why take a chance?

From Durango there was a bit more toll road to get out of town, but then it ended. They are building a beautiful new highway from Durango to Mazatlan that consists of something like 34 bridges and 38 tunnels (or vice versa) with a four lane road that will cut the drive down from about 5 hours to 2 1/2, but it isn’t finished yet.  Damn!

The current road is called “La Espina del Diablo”, or “the devil’s spine”.  It is appropriately named.  This is one curvy SOB of a road.  The altitude ranges from about 6000 feet above sea level to over 9000 feet.  It is all sharp curves, with sheer drops that go down (or at least seem to) the entire 6000 feet.  Oh, and did I mention the guard rails?  No?  Probably because there aren’t any.  Anyway, they would only slow down the double trailer trucks that are zooming around the blind corners.  As I’ve mentioned before, I’m not particularly fond of heights, so this was not my ideal day of riding. Fortunately this portion only went tortured me for about 150 miles.   

I did, however, have one unique experience on the road:  I actually ran into (not literally) another traveling motorcyclist.  This has been a strange trip in that regard.  In South America I was always running into other bikers.  On this trip, in more than two months I have not seen even one!  But today I passed someone on a bike going the other way, fortunately on a straight stretch of road.  We flagged each other down and stopped at a little roadside kiosk for a couple of tacos, and went off in our separate directions.

After 10 hours in the saddle I finally arrived in Mazatlan.  I checked into the Hotel Belmar, right on the water.  Now this place was probably lovely when it was built, but it was in desperate need of renovation… in 1980!  By now it is a POS, although with a great view and location.   However I did manage to find a massage, which was desperately needed after the days ride.

I hadn’t been to Mazatlan in 29 years and seven months.  I know the time, because Karen and I had our honeymoon there.  I certainly didn’t have as much fun this time!  However, the old part of the city has improved:  They’ve rebuilt the area around the plaza in downtown and there are lots of restaurants and trendy shops.  It’s a nice alternative to the high-rise hotels further north. 

On Wednesday morning I went to the ferry terminal to change my reservation, only to be told that there was nothing available that day.  But despite telling me that there were no seats and no rooms, the young lady at the counter kept typing into her computer.  OK, I thought, I don’t know what she’s doing but this is probably a good time to just keep my mouth shut and see what happens.  She just kept typing, and eventually said I had a ticket and a cabin for that afternoon!  I don’t know what she did (and I don’t care), but I copiously professed my undying love for her and left to get some minor things fixed on the bike while awaiting the afternoon departure.

The ferry itself was adequate.  It’s mostly trucks and truckers, with a few tourists thrown in for good luck.  The boat leaves at four in the afternoon and arrives at 9 the next morning, so having a cabin was muy importante.  The only other options were sitting up in the main cabin all night (if you had a reservation for a seat) or sitting in the cafeteria drinking a LOT of beer with the truckers. 

In either case, extremely loud TV programs were included at no additional cost.  The ferry ticket also included dinner and breakfast, which wasn’t too bad especially considering there was no other choice.  We finally arrived in La Paz, and I headed into the city about 20 miles from the port.

The End (of the alphabet, not the trip): Zacatecas

June 1 - 5

From Xilitla I headed towards Zacatecas.

My first stop was at Laguna Media Luna, where I had considered staying.  I had heard that this was an interesting place, and site for some good fresh water diving.  I had visions of a couple of days by the lake in my head.  Unfortunately, while it was pretty, it was basically a park where you could camp but otherwise there are no accommodations.  I had a swim and a beer, then was off to San Luis Potosi.

San Luis Potosi is another large city with a beautiful cathedral on the central square (are you seeing a pattern here... the Spaniards were nothing if not consistent).  For me it was just a stop for the night.  I had to keep moving, because there is a rumor that if you stand still in the central plaza for too long you will be bronzed and never able to leave, as happened to this gentleman.







On June 2 I arrived in Zacatecas.  This really is a beautiful colonial city, which also happens to have some of the most active street life that I have seen.  Everywhere you look there is some kind of street performance:  Clowns, bands, or singers.

The first "performance" I ran into, however, was a political demonstration protesting something or other that the government had done, was doing, or might do someday.  Just like at home!

The second performance was a bit more interesting:  I went on a tour of Zacatecan legends.  On the tour bus there were performers in costume both telling about the city and telling the "secret" legends of why things were as they were.  At the end we were all herded into an old monastery and more of the legends were acted out.  Definitely a unique perspective of the city, involving death, dismemberment, and the loss of virtue of a number of Zacatecans.

Zacatecas is built on several hills, and I think I walked them all.  On one hill is the Mina el Eden (Eden mine).  This was one of the most productive silver mines in Mexico.  After basically enslaving the local indigenous population (they were good at that) prodigeous amounts of silver were sent back to Spain.  While the tour of the mine was interesting, it was a bit of a Disneyland version of what a mine was like... complete with artificial miners.

From the top of the hill where the mine is located there is a telferico that goes to the city's other large hill: Cerro la Bufa.  The ride gives a spectacular view of the city and surrounding area.  At the top is (surprise !) another church and monastery.  Seeing a pattern here?

Unfortunately I was not feeling well in Zacatecas.  I haven't been having any problems up to this point, but I think that Montezuma was finally getting his revenge and while I felt like a king, it wasn't wise for me to stray too far from my throne. 

A comment about the convenience of the Mexican medical system:  I had brought some antibiotics with me for just this situation, but had used them up.  You can't buy antibiotics in Mexico without a prescription.  The convenience part is that attached to many pharmacies is a small medical office, staffed by an MD for most of the day and evening, and you can drop in for a consult for about US$2.50.  Now that's making things easy!

I stayed in Zacatecas a few days just to get myself feeling right, then it was off to Mazatlan.

Xilitla: Strange gardens and Mermaids

May 30 - June 1

From Pachuca I headed to the small village of Xilitla (pron: Shi-lit-la).  Getting here was a tough day of riding, particularly given my fear of heights.  The road was 200 km of steep mountains, with tight curves and switch-backs about every 18 inches.  The road dropped some 2000 feet on either side.  I've heard that it is quite beautiful scenery, but I couldn't look to either side of the road for the entire ride!




On occasion, however, there were some flat spots filled with giant cactus (cactusses?  cacti?  You choose)











In Xilitla I stayed at the Hostal del Cafe, a very nice small hotel with a beautiful garden.  I heard the owner, Alejandro, speaking Catalan to someone and, surprising him that I even recognized it, we became instant buddies.  It didn't hurt that I shared some Cuban cigars while he provided the beer in the afternoon.

My purpose in going off the main road to Xilitla was to see "Las Pozos", a surreal fantasy of a sculpture garden built in the 1960s by an eccentric rich Englishman (OK, that's redundant) named Edward James. 

The place is about 40 hectares of sculptures, staircases, doorways to nowhere, symbols from everything ranging from Hindu to Masonic, concrete flowers, and anything else you can think of.













I'm sure that one part of the garden must have been the inspiration for the moving stairways at Hogwarts (If you don't understand the Harry Potter reference ask a kid).









After visiting Las Pozos, I was walking around some cabins and came across what I am sure must have been three Sirens from Greek mythology. 



Like the sirens of old, they attempted to lure me into dangerous waters, which would undoubtedly lead to my untimely demise.  "Oh no", said I.  "I will not be lured by these lovely but dangerous creatures who are attempting to get me to go with them to the magic waterfall".  But then, beautiful women being much stronger than rational thought, I said "what the hell" and succumbed to their charms.





So off to the waterfall we went, cavorting and carousing in its healing fluids until, alas, the hour struck two and the magical mermaids had to return to their lair (ok, they had to go back to class).


Hey... it's my fantasy.  I can tell it any way I want !

Puebla and Pachuca

May 27 - 29

The road from Oaxaca to Puebla was not particularly interesting:  mostly cactus (which I was getting used to).   But it was beautiful in its own way.  By the way, a lot of this cactus is grown for food.  The "leaves" are really tasty when cooked. Best to leave off the pointy things, however.



The town of Puebla itself is not particularly interesting.  It is large and commercial, but for just this reason I thought I might be able to find the motorcycle parts that I needed to fix the cooling system.  No such luck, but I did manage to get on line and order them shipped to my sister's house in LA so that I could do a more permanent fix there.

My first hotel is Puebla was one of the more bizarre places I have stayed.  First, it looks like it was built out of rejects from Tiles 'R' Us.  Every square inch of the place is tiled. Unfortunately, there are large opaque glass windows onto the hallway so you can hear every sound in the hall... or in the other rooms!  One night in this place was enough.  I moved to a much quieter hostel the next morning.

However, Puebla does have one of the nicest and liveliest zocalos (main plaza) that I have seen.  Both nights in town I went to one of the many restaurants lining the square for a drink, a cigar, and dinner.

I also liked watching all the activities around the square.  It's particularly popular with families.







From Puebla I headed for Pachuca.  This was one of the few times that I took the Mexican toll road.  In general, I avoid them because while they are faster and often better paved, they also avoid all the villages and so are boring!  However, they also avoid a lot of the speed bumps, which is a good thing. 





On the way I encountered the Division Bikers motorcycle club from Mexico City, who thought I was loco for doing this trip, although every one of them said they wanted to do the same thing.





My next stop was Pachuca.  There was no particular reason for picking this town, just that it was on the way.

My hotel was the 100 year old Hotel de los Banos.  While it would have been nice if it was named this for the thermal baths that it was famous for, this was not the case.  It got its name because it was the first hotel in the area that had indoor plumbing!  Oh well, they were nice enough to let me park El Pinguino in the lobby.

The center of the city, and what it is known for, is the clock tower in the central plaza.  This was built in 1910 to commemorate the centennial of Mexico's independence.

The other thing that enjoyed walking around the city was the area of florists.  Dozens of them.  Beautiful, but not an ideal place for someone suffering from hay fever!

Oaxaca... Finally !

May 22 - 27

Oaxaca is a place I have wanted to visit for a long time. Unfortunately, the last time I drove through the area on our way to Panama in 2006 it was not advisable... the teachers were on strike, occupying the city, and violent. This time things had changed: The teachers were on strike again, they were occupying the city again (with tents covering just about every inch of downtown), but there was no violence. So while I couldn't see some of the city because of the tents, I could still enjoy it.

My hostel in Oaxaca, Hostel Don Nino, was great.  The room was nice, the location (across the street from a park) excellent, and the owner, Fardi, was a biker.  He had his Harley parked in the lobby, so I figured I would fit right in.

Oaxaca is know as one of the best places for food in Mexico.  A couple of women I had met in Tulum told me about a cooking class and this was the first thing I signed up for.  There were two of us in the class: me and a young Dutch girl named Mieka.  Unfortunately, the restaurant owner -- Oscar -- was a bit of a pill.  Fortunately Mieka and I decided we were going to have a good time despite his sour mood.

We started off deciding on the menu: Pumpkin soup, mole, quesadillas, and homemade chocolate ice cream with chile.  Then it was off to the market to buy the ingredients.  This was one of the most interesting parts of the class.

Mieka and I shared the chores of shredding, chopping, blending, and cooking.

Three hours later it was time to sample our wares, and we discovered we had done a hell of a job!

The next day I borrowed a helmet from Fardi at the hotel and Mieka and I went to explore the ruins at Mitla, about 20 miles away.  These ruins are famous for the intricate mosaics and stonework.  Mieka put an interesting perspective on the 700 - 900 year old ruins by pointing out that at the time these were being built there were already great cathedrals all over Europe.  

We stopped for lunch at a great restaurant that was also a mezcal factory and did a little tasting of the local product.  While Mieka drank all the mezcal, I got to sample the worms from the bottom of the bottles.  Yum !





Unfortunately, at this point I began having a bit of bike trouble.  We had been intending to go to some hot springs, but El Pinguino decided to catch a fever; in other words, an overheating problem.  So back it was (slowly) to Oaxaca to sort it out.  The Kawasaki dealer (like most of them) was useless.  This was on a Friday and they told me they couldn't look at the bike until [maybe] Tuesday!  Thanks guys... I'll certainly let all my biker friends know how helpful you are.

They did, however, suggest another shop down the road.  It turned out that the owner, Ricardo Leyva, is a friend of the hotel owner and he was super.  I needed a new thermostat, fan relay, and fan switch.  Unfortunately only the relay was available.  Fortunately, in warm weather the bike runs fine without a thermostat and Ricardo was able to wire in a manual fan switch that I just needed to turn on when riding in the city.

I have to give this guy credit:  He really did a first-rate job of wiring, soldering, and everything else.  He spent most of the day on Saturday on the bike and in the end charged me about $65. 

What a guy!

The following day I visited the cultural museum in Oaxaca, built in an old monastery.  It was very well done, with a great history of the area.  And some interesting artifacts left by the original inhabitants.

Juchitan to Oaxaca

After leaving San Cristobal, on the way to Oaxaca, I spent the night in Juchitan.  The town is known for having more festivals than just about any other place in Mexico.  The night I arrived was no different... there was a parade going on to celebrate something, but nobody could tell me what ("Es una fiesta.  No se de que).  Oh well, everybody enjoyed it whatever it was.


I also enjoyed dinner in Juchitan.  Now, there aren't many meals that I find really memorable, but this was... in part because it was so unexpected.  Juchitan is not a memorable city, nor was the neighborhood that I stayed in anything to write home about.  But there was a little Italian restaurant down the block that called itself a "fusion" restaurant (I'm never quite sure what that means), but it served a saltimbocca that was among the best I've every had.  A real unexpected treat.

The road to Oaxaca was beautiful.  Despite the wind, much of it was perfect biking road:  Mountains (without steep drop offs), beautiful scenery, and well paved roads.  All-in-all, a nice riding day.



This part of Mexico is the mezcal producing area.  Mezcal is kind of like Tequila, but made from a different maguey plant.  Now, I have always had a problem with mezcal... ever since I worked as a bartender and some distributor had a free mezcal night in our bar.  I (how shall I put this) overindulged and had a hangover that took 4 weeks to recover from.  But this was 30 years ago, so I figured it was worth another try.

Maguey is grown all over the region, with is otherwise quite dry and barren.







I stopped at one family mezcal factory near the village of Coyul.  They make mezcal in the traditional way, using what look like brick kilns to cook the plant before crushing and distilling.








I spent about an hour here, talking with the owner Juana Hernandez.  When I took a picture with her I told her I thought that we made a cute couple, which she found quite scandalous!




A bit further up the road I saw in the distance two teepees.  "What are these?" I asked myself.  Perhaps the homes of some giant breed of Navaho?  Pyramids set down by aliens from Area 51?  So off I went to discover who or what had erected these strange abodes.

The answer:  Storage bins for corn!  Que aburrido! (boring).  Damn, I really liked my giant Navaho theory better. 

Oh well, on to Oaxaca....